GRAVIS

The sensational arrest that usually hits me in my first days in India is wearing off. So is the feeling that it is an alien place. Perhaps due to the slowing down of my whirlwind movements, or the hospitality of the guest house, I'm starting to get into a familiar routine.

Wake up early, do a bit of exercise (a few surya namaskars or an exploration of the park), listen to some music, do my laundry (yeah, I bought a bar of "cleaning soap" and do it the old fashioned way--saves me time and money as well as being meditative). Then have some 'nescafe', hang out with the people at the guesthouse like cousin "Bunty" (who is the go-to guy for anything you need) or the employed kids Chaan Singh or Sunil, while waiting around for Mosim my rikshaw man.

Due to a considerable (approx. 25 mins) distance from the house to GRAVIS I get a chance to see a lot of Jodhpur every morning. Mosim takes this time to give me casual Hindi lessons as well as show me major sites. Like most Indian cities it has a variable landscape consisting of modernized buildings, ramshackle business outposts, public memorials, and exotic old houses. Though Jodhpur is unique in that it is buttressed on both sides by large mountainous outcroppings, one crowned with a palace, and the other by the imposing Meherangarh fort. You can catch the particulars of the season by doing a survey of the farmer's carts, right now it's: mango and watermelon.

Otherwise I've begun work at GRAVIS and I'm finding it to be an educational experience. It's a really smoothly running, professional service organization with a strong mission and a business atmosphere. In fact, I have a desk in an AC room, I'm fed regularly, I have complete access to all manner of books and my "supervisor" never bothers me. Anyone know where I can get this kindof deal in the States?

But hey, let's backtrack a bit to the first day.

Monday morning I walked down the cow-lined streets of the Milk Men Colony to the three-tiered office and after a bit of waiting, met the director Dr. Prakash Tyagi. Smart, energetic, ascetic, direct, and kind. He posseses a great deal of gravity for a skinny dude. He gave me my initial project (a publication I have to research/write), told me that a desk was waiting in the library, and explained the logistics of the organization: be there 9AM sharp "not Indian standard time", leave at 6PM, come to his office when I'm requested, go to the field whenever anyone goes. Mornings start in the basement with an all-office secular prayer under the portraits of MK Gandhi, Vinoba Bhave, and Jayaprakash Narayan followed by a discussion/debate of current events.

I'm developing the ability to discern Hindi accents--much to my indulgence. The flux of visitors provides the soundscape. Some people have noticeably Punjabi, Harayani, or Marathi accents, others a more proper standard version (this is the one I understand the best), others Marwari-inflected, and then there's the Hindi spoken by the organization's veterans. These guys have weathered decades on the social work battlefield, making an empty salary and being driven solely on principle. Their Hindi is crisp, particular, enrapturing, verbose, eloquent and to me-- incomprehensible.

I'm having fun regardless.

They are wise and I admire them, so I'm trying my best to learn. And Shivaniji (my office mate, yes, we refer to everyone here as 'ji') patiently fields my ridiculously elementary questions ("Shivaniji, how do I say 'how'? what about 'what'?). I've read some really interesting books and I'll share thoughts on those soon. Also, expect more pictures and soon enough, vidoes!



(The Guest House, Durag Niwas, 8:30AM)

Pink Room in a Blue City

It's been about two days now in Jodhpur and I'm adjusting.

The guest house is quite nice, the people are extremely welcoming in a cool, laid back way and i'm really enjoying my company. The proprietor, Govind, is an affable fellow who speaks with a clean accent akin to mid-atlantic more than british. He set things up for me within an hour of trudging into his place at 9PM from the train, like my return ticket, rikshaw service, and room. I'm grateful for that.

The food is a lot like standard Gujarati meals, which is perfect. For dinner, the long term guests walk into the kitchen, grab a steel thali from the shelf and help ourselves to Rajasthani versions of Dal (lentil soup), baath (rice), shaak (stir fried spiced vegetables), and roti (unleavended flatbread).

Mornings are calm and filled with the sound of birds, the house is secluded but has an open-air atrium of sorts in the middle. Otherwise, in part of their freindliness and perhaps my snacks, I've made friends with a few of the people here. An English expat who wanders around Asia, an American volunteer at Sambhali trust (the NGO run at the guest house itself), and a French microfinance intern.

It's funny how I struggle with Hindi, and become hyperaware of how ridiculous an American accent can sound sometimes. Otherwise, all is good and I'm doing my best to stay in the game. Enough sugar cane juice and I think I could rule the world.

Jammu Tawi

(Sun Sets at Pali, Rajasthan 7:30PM)


(My train friends, the newlyweds, Hersh and Riddhu)

Pouring with sweat and making it just in time, we reached the Jammu Tawi express through the midmorning "amdavadi" traffic and heat. As is customary with Gujaratis my bags were packed to the brim with all manner of snacks and travel foods: Ma's theplas, Juna Sherbazaar Chauwanu, keris, my Qatari sesame cookies, and 4 liters of water. Though I tend to be a bit introverted on these train rides, I was too excited to keep to myself (plus my books are too dry to really enjoy in this context) and immediately made the acquaintence of Hersh and Riddhu, two newlyweds on their way to honeymoon in Kashmir.

We had a blast! Being 25 and 22 we had quite a bit in common and we could joke around about and discuss all things from toilet experiences, to religion, to politics, to childhood games. Hersh moved to the US in hopes of attaining the elusive "american dream" and is doing work at Wal-mart to make some cash and pay the bills. The job climate is rough as we all know. Riddhu is his childhood sweetheart, who waited 5 years while he established basics abroad. To me, he represented that humble, go-getter, overcome every obstacle without fret, ambitious, yet sometimes playfully innocent Desi mindset.

I loved seeing how differently we had come to similar conclusions. Having some scientific training and trivia laden knowledge, I tend to overanalyze--create vast trains of thought based on some factual evidence. So I wasn't surprised that when we started to talk about drinking water, I went into a long discourse/lecture about microorganisms, vaccination, and filtration techniques. And after exhausting them they both looked at me, laughed a bit, and explained: when you only eat at home you end up sick when you eat out, as does the one who only drinks bottled water and switches to regular. Simple, pragmatic, and logical enough to employ without much thought. It's the essence of the observational basis for moderation extolled by so many asian traditions-- just in a simple, purified form. I realized then how attractive this mindset can be. "what's survived time has worked, therefore it can be accepted as true".

I could really see the difference when two blustering blondes from Greensboro, NC entered the train. They complained incessantly about the heat, the sweating, the rudeness, the terrible food, their absent air conditioners, and how much they hated Wal-mart. It was at this moment, when I looked at my friends, keeping quiet with distant curiosity that I realized the lesson they were trying to teach me.

Technical Difficulties

In Jodhpur now. Health is good. I will post in more detail tomorrow about the train journey and my first impressions.

It is HOT HOT HOT!!! haha. but quite manageable. Room is good and food is agreeable.

Expect pictures soon!!

Ahmedabad

I walked down the airplane stairs in a haze. Quite literally, it was about 86F at 4:00AM. The faint smell of something burning, the low light, that very specific India scent all bringing me right back to a place seemingly reserved in memory. I got through Sardar Vallabbhai with ease (In Gujarati: everything alright? have you been coughing? No. Okay, pass for swine flu). And Saileshmasa arrived soon in his compact Maruti 800. I took in the familiar sites: poverty on the streets, sometimes nonsensical traffic patterns (more on this later), and the pulsing feeling of another day beginning in Ahmedabad. We drove by the famous Shahibaug neighborhood, the seat of the industrialist kings of the 19-20th century. We passed by regal Kankaria Lake, the man-made marvel dating from the 15th century. Already, I'm reminded of the proximity of old and new, of strict conservatism and unbridled progress, of kings and business men and corrupt politicians and poverty-- India can be overwhelming at times.

Nevertheless, thanks to the sleep I gained on the flight, I felt energized and ready for the day. Itinerary: phone, mangos, train, family visit, food, internet, etc.

Considering that I was just here a few months ago, we hit the ground running, no sense of awkwardness or adjustment needed. A quick shower (though it would be supplemented by my sweat all day), some tea, some mangoes, some snacks, a ride around in the heat, some repacking of the bags, a visit to Alkamaci's work, a webcam chat with Dad and Vinay, some phone talks, a visit to Monu's father-in-law, a visit to Rajenmama-- the day flew by. Next thing I knew I was visiting Mauli and Amimami.

Dad generously gifted Mauli a laptop, which she was excited to have. We spent some time joking around and headed out to eat.

I was craving some Pani Puri and junk food so we headed to Bikanerwala to grab some bites..

And some delicious Veg. Burger...

I'm heading off to Jodhpur today at 11:10AM on the Jammu Tawi Express. Ahmedabad has been familiar and comforting in a sense: an easy transition. But the real adventure begins today. I can't wait. Jodhpur here I come!



(Mauli, Ma with gifted Laptop, 5:00PM)



(Mauli, Amimami, Ma, Alkamaci, Saileshmasa, Me 5:00PM)



(Me enjoying Sev Puri at Bikanerwala 8:00PM)


(Veg. Burger, Bikanerwala, Nehrunagar crossroads, Satellite Rd. 8:00PM)

Gotta Love it

(Fresh Kesar Mango, hand plucked from the tree in Talala, Junagadh, 9:00AM)

More on Ahmedabad coming soon...

In Transit

After the bus to NYC, I walked over to Purvi's place reflecting on the sometimes intimidating, wholly inspiring, sense of anonymity which pervades the "Big Apple". It's quite the atmosphere, and as I'd mentioned before, a nice place to see my America (having grown up on the East coast) in a microcosm. Plurality, enterprise, limitless ambition.

We had empenadas (fried filled latin pockets), ice cream, and pizza (yes, excessively nostalgic). Hung out on her roofdeck (w/Aalap and Puja), then headed off to the airport to do customary protocols which went smoothly. On the plane by 10PM, in the Air by 11:35.


(NYC, lights passing in the night from high altitude, 12:10AM)

Qatar Airways, I've gotta say. The food was great, the service courteous, and the plane was brand-spanking new. The video on demand system can keep anyone from the most skeptical luddite to a caffeinated 12 year-old with ADHD occupied for hours. They have a clever system to wake us up which involves the subtle use of gradually shifting colored lights and even though i was in the very last row, i was one of the first ones off: yes, they have a back and front exit.

Otherwise, I ended up in Doha, with spotty (though only for me it seemed) free WiFi and a decent 'luxury' duty-free. This type of thing isn't really my scene but i purused around and impulsively bought some sesame cookies. The crowds were pretty engulfing, as the duty-free concept seems to attract people to spend tons of money solely on copious amounts of cigarettes and booze. But if that isn't attractive to you, buy water. I grabbed 2 bottles of aquafina at 50 cents a piece. I would've thought that water in the middle of the bloody desert would have been a scarce commodity: apparently not.

Sooner or later, a few book chapters and a quick flight; a snack, and a nap later i finally made it. About 34hrs after I left Upton, I was in Ahmedabad. Not to mention, free of Swine flu.

Day One

The journey begins...

After an eventful ride into Boston (sunglare+traffic=almost missed the bus), I'm now on my way to NYC for my flight later tonight. Should be a nice farewell to the States before my longest overseas stay since childhood.


(Dad, Me, Vinny 6:15AM Upton, MA)

If I can grab a connection later, I'll update again today. If not, see you in India!